hanaking Upgraded Floor Lamp, 30W/2600LM Super Bright Floor Lamp with Remote Control, Stepless Adjust Color Temperatures and Brightness, Torchiere Standing Lamp for Living Room Bedroom Office

Amazing! So bright and functional!
I never write reviews, but I had to for this lamp. I love this thing. It has increased my quality of life tenfold. Its the best!! The multitude of light settings are super useful, and the brightest is honestly so bright! I love that I can change the bulb hue as well. I find the remote works at a decent distance (I can turn the lamp on and off from across my studio). This is exactly the product I needed to brighten up my space! Is it the most attractive lamp ever? No. Is it going to be a family heirloom for years to come? Probably not. But it is 100% worth the price, and fit my need exactly.

This LED can dance with the old halogens (photo beside halogen and CFL)
Photo from left to right: 55W 2D/2C HO CFL, This item (36W LED), 250W Halogen.Update after one year: All three lights still fully work. One is cycled for a few minutes at a time at low brightness multiple times a day. The other two are run occasionally (a couple times a week) for several hours. One is low brightness; the other is full brightness. All are controlled with wall switches.Original:Ever since the halogen torchieres where banned, the alternatives have been pretty bad. GE brought out a “2D” high output 55W CFL which was comparable to a 250W halogen. They had frequent failures of the rotary switch or dimmable ballast long before the bulb burned out. This specimen survived on a wall switch in a room used mostly for storage.The unit in the photo has a “2C” aftermarket bulb. The light on the right in the photo is an actual 250W halogen whose bulbs are rated 4000 lumens (increasing this to 300W significantly increases the output to 6000 lumens). The Hanaking 36W LED is noticeably brighter.I tried to use Photometer Pro app to objectively measure the light levels, but its results were inconsistent with my eyes (it “rolled” over from 113 to 89 even though the lamp got significantly brighter). Thus as the picture shows its noticeably brighter than the competitors but I can’t quantify it.For power consumption the competitors used their rated wattage per the kill-a-watt (56W for CFL, and 255W for Halogen).The Hanaking is advertised to be “stepless” for dimming and color temperature. It actually has 6 discreet steps for each but ramps the color/brightness instead of abrupt change. So its really not “stepless” since it has 6 steps.For the color temperature closest to the halogen its power consumption for each of the 6 levels is:1W, 7W, 13W, 19W, 26W, and 34W. The 1W mode is about as bright as a 15W incandescent, while the 34W mode is almost as bright as a 300W halogen.The light mostly works as expected when connected to a wall switch. It remembers both the brightness and color temperature. There is about a half second delay to turn on. When turning off there is a full second delay at the lowest brightness that reduces to almost no delay at full brightness.The control on the pole and the remote work the same. The remote doesn’t feel super cheap.Assembly is easier than the 1990s models which had tendency to cross thread and wobble. When assembled the pole is straight and can be twisted tight enough to avoid wobble. When intentionally upset to check for stability its no worse than the antiques but can easily be knocked by a kid or larger pet going between the pole and the wall. Its about half the weight of the antiques.Without a wall switch the biggest issue is vampire drain. The kill-a-watt flops between 0 and 1 watt, and shows 5VA. I estimate thats actually about 0.5W which corresponds to 4.5 kWh per year if its always off. Thats enough power to drive an electric car up to 25 miles so its quite a bit of drain. It also means if the lamp is on 20 minutes per day it will use equal power from operation and vampire drain. Thus if you’re trying to save energy either plug it into a wall switch or a power strip unless its used several hours a day.Pros:- Almost as bright as 300W halogen, noticeably brighter than 250W halogen.- Wall wart(plug), while large, is unpolarized so it can be plugged in either orientation, so either upper or lower outlet of duplex can be used without blocking the other. Very important if switched outlet is only the top half.- No compromises around light levels or color temperatures. The lowest brightness is well thought out and the other 5 levels are uniform steps.- No rotary dimmer switch = no rotary dimmer switch failures.- External wall wart is just 24VDC so it could be replaced if it fails.- No failure prone fluorescent dimmable ballast.Cons:- Delays when turning on or off with wall switch- Vampire drain ~0.5W.I expect the lamp to last decade(s) given 100K hour LED life and no rotary/mechanical switch. Failure points are likely to be wall wart or the driver (or getting knocked over and physically breaking). A small number should fail in first hours of operation due to bathtub curve. I’ll update if it fails due to anything other than getting knocked over.Some have complained about wall warts/transformers that heat up to about 120F. This is a nominal temperature for power electronics. MOSFETs (the power transistors in switching supply) can operate over 100C/212F. Many are speced for 150C/300F. Low end iron transformers are typically rated for 80C/175F. It is unlikely any components in these power supplies are reaching these critical temperatures.The reason for 4* instead of 5* is the vampire drain when used without wall switch.

Great light!
Wonderful. I have 2 of these in my bedroom – it’s a loft with no overhead lighting. Two of these supply a lot of light, and it is a bonus that they can be dimmed.